Hawaii, as tourist bureaus and Hollywood constantly remind us, is ‘paradise.’ Push past the hype and what do you find? Darned if they’re not right. Hawaii is hiking sculpted cliffs or diving coral-reef cities in the afternoon and drinking mai tais to slack-key guitar at sunset. It’s slurping chin-dripping papayas with hibiscus flowers in your hair; it’s Pacific Rim cuisine, fiery volcanoes and cavorting whales. By serendipity and design (and popular consensus), Hawaii is an almost flawless destination. It’s an enchanting multicultural society whose roots lie in Polynesia, Asia, North America and Europe, and it’s an expression of nature at its most luscious and divine.

Over seven million visitors come to experience paradise annually, but the islands are not as crushed with sun-baked tourists and cooing honeymooners as you might think. If you want a cushy resort vacation, head for Oahu’s Maui. For something cheaper or more adventurous, aim for the Big Island or Kaua'i. If time is short, stick to one island and make the most of it. Honolulu & Waikiki are teeming cultural and economic powerhouses, but in under an hour you can be alone in the rain forest or snoozing on white sand.

Locals know that Hawaii isn’t really paradise, but on any given day it can sure feel like it.